While acne can be unpleasant to talk about, there is a fun part: acne fixes! Here, I’ll be going through all of the main over-the-counter acne treatments available, how they work, and where you can get them.
If you have teenage acne
or more mild acne, then these are great options for you. 🙂 At the end of each section, I’ll also include some well-loved products that you can check out if you’re interested in a specific ingredient. Let’s get started!
Table of Contents
Over-the-Counter Acne Treatments
Salicylic Acid, Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) & Lipohydroxy acids (LHAs)
You’ve probably heard of salicylic acid before, since it’s one of the most common ingredients used to fight acne. Salicylic acid is a type of beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can be found in dozens of over-the-counter skin care products. Most commonly, you’ll find this active ingredient in face cleansers and treatments, with concentrations ranging from 0.5% to 2%.
Salicylic acid and BHAs work by speeding up cell turnover, which is a fancy way of saying that it helps shed dead skin cells. This action reduces acne by clearing out clogged pores. Typically, salicylic acid is recommended for mild cases of acne.
There’s also salicylic acid derivative called lipohydroxy acid, or LHA for short. It’s more lipophilic (attracted to oil) than its salicylic acid cousin, and its larger size makes it a gentler option. The main downside to LHA is that it doesn’t penetrate the skin as well as BHAs do. However, LHA is retained longer in the skin.
Salicylic Acid & BHA Options:
Important Takeaway: Keep in mind that it can take several weeks (sometimes, even months) to see a visible difference in your skin after starting a new product. The key is to stay consistent and be patient!
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) & Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
Since we talked a lot about BHAs and LHA, let’s go over AHAs and PHAs. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are relatively newer ingredients when it comes to treating acne, and they work by exfoliating the skin, which helps keep pores clear and prevent acne formation. Their main action of exfoliating away dead skin cells along with being humectants (moisture retainers) makes them good options for a variety of skin types.
AHAs and PHAs are similar in the sense that they’re water-soluble molecules that work on the surface of the skin. The main difference is that PHAs are larger and gentler (much like LHA compared to BHAs). BHAs and LHA are different from AHAs and PHAs because they’re oil-soluble molecules that work from inside the pores.
Here’s a chart depicting the main differences between BHAs, LHA, AHAs, and PHAs:
Benzoyl Peroxide
Let’s move on to another popular acne treatment: benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide is an over-the-counter ingredient that works in two ways: by killing acne-causing bacteria and getting rid of dead skin cells. This active ingredient comes in different strengths, with the greatest being 10% concentration. Benzoyl peroxide is recommended for mild to moderate acne, as well as body acne.
Benzoyl Peroxide Options:
- PanOxyl Acne Creamy Wash Benzoyl Peroxide 4% Daily Control
- PanOxyl Acne Foaming Wash Benzoyl Peroxide 10% Maximum Strength
Important Takeaway: Benzoyl peroxide, as well as all the other active ingredients discussed in this article, have the potential to cause irritation and dryness. As tempting as it is to pick up the strongest product, less is often more when it comes to skincare. It’s best to start off with a product that contains a lower concentration of the active ingredient and then work your way up, if needed. Using too much or too strong of a product can end up damaging your skin barrier and consequently cause even more irritation and acne.
Apply a small amount of product and be sure to use lots of moisturizer. Start off by using your new product two to three times a week and slowly increase to every day. If nothing seems to change after a few weeks of consistent use, then you can try a different product with a higher concentration. Stop use and consult a physician if you experience any serious side effects.
Retinol
There has been a definite surge in the use of retinol for acne, given all the attention it has received on social media–and for good reason. It’s one of the most well-studied actives in skincare. Historically, retinol has been lauded for its anti-aging effects, but it’s also extremely effective at combatting acne.
Retinol is an over-the-counter form of vitamin A that works against acne by exfoliating away dead skin cells, oil, and other impurities from the pores. Unlike salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide, retinol pretty much exclusively comes in treatment form. Over-the-counter retinol is mild compared to its prescription retinoid cousins (which we’ll talk about later) so it’s generally recommended for mild to moderate acne.
As with any acne ingredient, retinol may cause irritation and sun sensitivity so be sure to start off with a small amount and use lots of moisturizer and sunscreen!
Warning: Avoid retinol if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, as excessive levels of vitamin A derivatives have been linked to serious birth defects.
Over-the-Counter Retinol Options:
Is It Safe for Teenagers to Use Retinol?
There’s debate as to whether or not younger people should be using retinol, and the answer is absolutely yes! It’s safe for teens to use retinol. The idea that retinol may actually cause earlier aging in teens is a myth and is not supported by the data. In fact, many teens are prescribed retinoids for acne, which are even stronger compounds than retinol.
Retinol and retinoids are great for anti-aging because they help increase the production of collagen–the protein that gives your skin its elasticity and youthful appearance. Over our lifetime, we lose collagen, which is how wrinkles and fine lines form. Overall, prevention is the most effective anti-aging tool we have, and retinol along with sunscreen are two of the best ways to achieve this.
Adapalene (Retinoid)
One acne treatment that you may not have heard of before is adapalene. Adapalene is a retinoid (a vitamin A derivative) that was previously prescription-only but recently became available over-the-counter. It typically comes in 0.1% concentration and is stronger than retinol.
Adapalene is recommended for mild to moderate acne and is the only retinoid that is available without a prescription. Adapalene treats acne by regulating skin cell growth, decreasing inflammation, and healing existing acne. Adapalene typically comes in treatment form. It might be a bit harder to find adapalene products since there are fewer brands that make them. However, you should be able to find the ones that I’ve listed below in most drugstores and online.
Warning: Retinoids are another vitamin A derivative that you should avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding, since they can still pass through the bloodstream and cause birth defects.
Adapalene Options:
- Differin Gel (NOT cruelty-free)
- La Roche Posay Effaclar Adapalene Gel 0.1% Acne Treatment (NOT cruelty-free)
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is another anti-acne ingredient that has received a lot of praise lately. Azelaic acid targets acne by killing P. acnes bacteria, exfoliating the pores, and decreasing keratin protein production. (Too much keratin makes it easy for dead skin cells to accumulate, creating an ideal environment for acne formation.) Azelaic acid is good treatment option for mild to moderate acne.
Although azelaic acid tends to produce visible results less quickly, it is well-loved because it tends to be gentler on the skin compared to other ingredients. Azelaic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, which is why it’s often used to treat rosacea. An extra perk is that azelaic acid blocks the pigment-producing process in our skin so it works to minimize acne scars and other hyperpigmentation. While prescription-strength azelaic acid treatments are available, there are plenty of over-the-counter options.
Fun Fact: Dermatologists will often switch women using retinol and retinoid products to azelaic acid, since azelaic acid is considered safe to use during pregnancy.
Azelaic Acid Options:
Sulfur
The final over-the-counter anti-acne ingredient we’re going to talk about is sulfur. Sulfur is considered by some to be a “more natural” way to treat acne. This compound works similarly to benzoyl peroxide in terms of antibacterial properties and effectiveness at unclogging pores. You’ll find sulfur skincare products mostly in the form of soap.
Sulfur is recommended for more mild acne. Sulfur-containing skincare products tend to be more gentle. However, there are other ingredients often added in these products that make dryness and irritation possibilities. Another downside to sulfur is its odor, as sulfur tends to smell like rotten eggs. Many sulfur products will try to mask this natural scent with other fragrances, which may cause irritation in some.
I’ve tried one sulfur product for acne and only saw mild improvement so I won’t be recommending any specific products, but I encourage you to do your own research and look at reviews!
Final Thoughts
Over-the-counter ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and retinol are great options for treating mild to moderate acne. This includes non-inflamed acne (blackheads and whiteheads) and milder forms of inflamed acne (pustules and papules), which are most typically found in teenage acne.
The great thing about over-the counter medications is that you don’t need to go to a doctor and get a prescription to use them. You can find all of these ingredients at your local drug store or online, and you can find many options for a great price!
Conclusion
Congrats on making it to the end of this article! You’ve just taken the first step to treating your acne.
If you’re experiencing more severe acne or adult acne, then you’ll likely need to consider stronger acne medications. Check out my second article in this series on prescription acne treatments to find out what your options are. See you there! Stay healthy and keep learning. 🙂